Ta Daaa!!!

I was thinking, man, if I was not turning the rotors, as easy as the caliper pins are to R&R, swaping pads (like for track days) on this car would take about 60 seconds per corner. Sweet.

And done! Repeat 3 times.

Wheel cleaned up front and back.

Assembled. Note carpeted wheel wells for sound deadening.

Slide new pads in place, install top pin, then hold spring clip in place while pushing the lower pin in from the back of the caliper. Seat them good with a small hammer, these pins are all that hold the pads in place. They click into place so you know when it is good.

Because the old pads are so much thinner than the new, the caliper pistons need to be pushed bach into their bores to allow space for the new. Off the car I use a c clamp, but this was easy to do with a screw driver as a pry bar to gently work then back, being careful not to poke a rubber seal.

There are two small pins that go thru the calipers and brake pads. Simply drive these out the back with a punch and the pads come out the back of the caliper by hand.

Rotors back from the machine shop. Rears turned to .880 and .875 with a light cross hatch finish by Quinlin Automotive in Indy.

Depth micrometer is set at the factory spec min thickness. Rotors are Brembo, appear to be the original ones.

Another quick project thread. I have so many things unfinished, I get all excited when I can pound one out in a hurry. The QP had pretty thin pads, so it was time to replace before much more serious driving. Let's go!

Jacked up the car and removed wheels, calipers and rotors. Inspected and adjusted parking brake shoes. Caliper seals are good, pistons moved freely. Rotor showed no signs of heat stress, but had some scoring and glazing so they were checked for thickness. Sufficient mat'l to machine and still be over spec. Min thickness is .8661" or 22mm.

Also checked all suspension bushings and mounts, and cleaned up while in there.