Posted by SMS, May 2, 2010 at 2:52 pm
There are plenty of options in the aftermarket, but I thought my first choice would be a local business that someone might have had a good experience with. I want the unit to retain the stock look but maybe add better or more coils. I'll try a guy I talked to out of the Yellow Pages and report back if they are up to snuff.
Posted by SMS, Apr 30, 2010 at 8:50 am
Does anyone here know of a good radiator shop?
I need to have one worked up for the MG that has better cooliing capacity than the stock unit.
Thanks
I need to have one worked up for the MG that has better cooliing capacity than the stock unit.
Thanks
Posted by SMS, Apr 27, 2010 at 2:37 am
Rick's Gallardo
in forum Showroom
That is a great picture. It looks like a very nice scale model posed like that with the overhead shot.
Posted by SMS, Apr 20, 2010 at 10:56 am
tony513 wrote
I'd love to get a vintage bike and attempt a restoration! dirt/flat track bikes are my favorite!
Yeah, me too. I'm writing a book about them, it has been an interesting journey so far.
Posted by SMS, Apr 12, 2010 at 2:23 am
ZUL8TR wrote
If you have a power drill, you can pic up a chuck and small, felt buffing wheel at Sears, or any other hardware store. I'd guess a $10-12 investment for the parts.
If you have a drill that plugs into the wall, go for that over a battery operated drill since the charge won't last long enough for the job. I tried with my cordless and burned through both batteries in no time. Then pulled out the corded Makita and ran that baby the rest of the day on full power.
Sorry, but this is the best shot of my wheels I have at the moment. Excuse the car, but instead of following Duz's no water wash method, I tried water and well...you see what happened...shrinkage...no guy likes at talk about that.
I did paint the center sections, but the edges are polished.
OK, so I first had to strip off the peeling clearcoat. I'll skip that since you don't need to deal with that step.
So if you are looking for a "mirror" finish, first check for any nicks. You will need to taper those nick edges via small, fine files and fine sand paper. Working through finer and finer grit paper and very fine steel wool will get you a long ways there. Lots of elbow grease.
After you think you are pretty uniform, apply the rubbing compund of your choice. As I mentioned, I prefer Wenol now and it comes in different levels of polish for fine or ultra-fine finish. If you have Brasso already, go for that and see if you get the finish you are happy with. Wear eye protection and wear clothes you don't care about as the drill WILL sling it all over you. The drill works great since you can twist it this and that to hit the bends better than you can a bench-mount.
Wash, rinse, repeat until you have the finish you are looking for. I use Mother's aluminum polish to maintain the shine. I would NOT clearcoat the intercoolers since I am clueless as to whether that would creat any heatsink issues. We need an thermodynamics engineer to answer that one. If they say its OK, you can purchase Duplicolor's Wheel Clearcoat and hit them with that.
As for Brasso, I used that all the time to keep my cymbals looking seriously sharp. That stuff would take out the drumstick marks real well. Use in a ventilated area, or wooooohoooo. I have never tried it on aluminum, only brass cymbals.
If you have a drill that plugs into the wall, go for that over a battery operated drill since the charge won't last long enough for the job. I tried with my cordless and burned through both batteries in no time. Then pulled out the corded Makita and ran that baby the rest of the day on full power.
Sorry, but this is the best shot of my wheels I have at the moment. Excuse the car, but instead of following Duz's no water wash method, I tried water and well...you see what happened...shrinkage...no guy likes at talk about that.
I did paint the center sections, but the edges are polished.
OK, so I first had to strip off the peeling clearcoat. I'll skip that since you don't need to deal with that step.
So if you are looking for a "mirror" finish, first check for any nicks. You will need to taper those nick edges via small, fine files and fine sand paper. Working through finer and finer grit paper and very fine steel wool will get you a long ways there. Lots of elbow grease.
After you think you are pretty uniform, apply the rubbing compund of your choice. As I mentioned, I prefer Wenol now and it comes in different levels of polish for fine or ultra-fine finish. If you have Brasso already, go for that and see if you get the finish you are happy with. Wear eye protection and wear clothes you don't care about as the drill WILL sling it all over you. The drill works great since you can twist it this and that to hit the bends better than you can a bench-mount.
Wash, rinse, repeat until you have the finish you are looking for. I use Mother's aluminum polish to maintain the shine. I would NOT clearcoat the intercoolers since I am clueless as to whether that would creat any heatsink issues. We need an thermodynamics engineer to answer that one. If they say its OK, you can purchase Duplicolor's Wheel Clearcoat and hit them with that.
As for Brasso, I used that all the time to keep my cymbals looking seriously sharp. That stuff would take out the drumstick marks real well. Use in a ventilated area, or wooooohoooo. I have never tried it on aluminum, only brass cymbals.
I didn't know you were a drummer. Rock on, bro!
Posted by SMS, Mar 16, 2010 at 7:48 am
Dad and I just went out to see a few old Cyclones and other bikes. Grandpa was the draftsman for the Cyclone company. Here is one, fully restored and looking great. They made around 300, 12 are know to exist today, some in the race version, some in the street version. And yes, it is in the guy's dining room.
Also an old pic from the track, and one of the road bikes.
This engine was cutting edge in the teens, it was the pioneer in overhead cam cycle engines. Driveshafts and bevel gears are in the tubes to run the cams where other bikes had pushrods and rocker arms in the same locations. Cyclones kicked a** on board and dirt tracks.
Also an old pic from the track, and one of the road bikes.
This engine was cutting edge in the teens, it was the pioneer in overhead cam cycle engines. Driveshafts and bevel gears are in the tubes to run the cams where other bikes had pushrods and rocker arms in the same locations. Cyclones kicked a** on board and dirt tracks.
Posted by SMS, Mar 8, 2010 at 10:53 am
DC33 wrote
a motorized sled??
awesome!
awesome!
I bet it was a monster, and I bet his neighbors were not big fans of it. No mufflers.
This was way before any snowmobile patents were issued.
Posted by SMS, Mar 8, 2010 at 6:24 am
A natural relationship to my fondness of old cars and boats, is old motorcycles. Especially the pre WW1 era bikes of board track and dirt track racing. Those were real grass roots companies and the riders were the bravest racers to ever live, ranking in my book with the unlimited hydroplane racers.
Anyway, I have this cool photo of my Grandpa Edward Sewall (standing) and his soon-to-be-brother in law Harry Reeves with a 1917 Harley Davidson. They had many bikes, and one thing he did was to build a sled using the engine and a few parts from a 19teens Cyclone motorcycle. Thought you guys might think these are neat.
Anyway, I have this cool photo of my Grandpa Edward Sewall (standing) and his soon-to-be-brother in law Harry Reeves with a 1917 Harley Davidson. They had many bikes, and one thing he did was to build a sled using the engine and a few parts from a 19teens Cyclone motorcycle. Thought you guys might think these are neat.
Posted by SMS, Feb 17, 2010 at 2:32 am
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in forum Website News
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Posted by SMS, Feb 12, 2010 at 7:42 am
Lotus F1 Car
in forum Cars, Motorcycles, and Boats
Last BRG color car I recall in F1 was the old Jaguar team, here with ex Ferrari pilot playboy and general bad a** Eddie Irvine in 2002.
