That means half the time you do, thus we're making progress.

Setting up phasing. The cams on the distributor shaft open the points.
Since each distributor has a 4 lobe cam, and evertime the points open, the corresponding coil fires off a high voltage spark, every single 360 degrees of distributor shaft rotation triggers 4 sparks. Each bank of the V8 is managed as it's own 4 cyl.

So, my second set of points, 45 degrees of rotation around the shaft will now set off the other coil. Alternating sparks every 45 degrees = 8 sparks from one distributor. Ta, da, it's almost modern.

Dwell is the length of time the points remain closed during the cycle. The coil builds up a charge during this time. The spec calls for a dwell of 34 degrees. So using a degree wheel and ohm meter, each point set is individually set to 34 degrees by adjusting the point gap that is reached when they are fully open. This is a critical item, as for each degree of dwell the points are off, the timing is off by the same degrees.
Soooo, after the tedius job of dialing in both sets, I then check to see if they open exactly 45 degrees apart. They were not right on, it read 46. So had to loosen one set and move it, then reset dwell, then check for 45. Darn, now at 44. This went on for a while, finally found the sweet spot of 34-34-45! Scribed marks and tightened everything down real good.

Stay tuned for the next episode of, "This Old Car"

The biger marked holes are to provide clearance relief for the points back-side, so they lay flat on the base of the dist. The scary part:

Ultimately ended up combining these little drill holes into a bigger opening to provide radial adjustment of the point set location.
Then the big unused circlular cut out is filled with aluminum plate to sepate the lubricated advance section below from the ignition half.

Quick update:

As noted above, I decided to put the points for triggering both coils into one distributor. The benefits are many, the downside is just pretty much drilling holes in an expensive piece of hardware.

Before anyone screams "go electronic", I had these points, and no sence throwing away $100, so I'll use them until next time they are due for replacement, then put electronic trigger modules into this very same arrangement. Best of both worlds.

ok, here is the layout of the added points to the dist base. As close to 45 degrees off from the single set, as the V8 fires a plug each 45 degrees of rotation.

OK-fine. Be that way. Be just another fish in the school.


Oh, and the ugliest car ever built is coming from GM and Chrysler. Soon.

Yep. Hardly ever see one with a manual gear box.

Stop the presses!

A real 6 speed is on the market. F-car, but not a Ford.

From Ferrariads:
The car is red on black interior with the following options; scuderia fender shields, red brake calipers, yellow tachometer, number two stitching (thicker thread), red color stitching, daytona seats, power seats, red insert on seats, the interior dash trim is in carbon fiber, rear leather bench, clear bra since new in the front bumper along with part of the front trunk and mirrors. Also the car has brand new tires. This car is a rare six speed model.The "cambio manuale" is more involving and entertaining to drive without the worries for F1 pumps or other related things braking down. I have a handicap permit so the car has no dings or dents, never in an accident, the paint is all original. The car is completely up to date and was just fitted with brand new manifolds at Ferrari of Central Florida, as part of this they they have to do a compression test and is perfect. Never tracked nor abuse, non smoker. The car is mostly highway driven and has 11,700 miles right now, but keep in mind that I will continue to drive the car until it sells so miles will vary somewhat. I'm the original owner and live in Orlando, this car has never seen snow or salt and only driven on good days. Selling price $140,000 firm price. You may email me at Lecusay@mac.com to discuss offers, pictures... and then I'll give you my mobile number. A PPI is welcome at buyers expense.

Motor-cars International has a White with blue stripes model. 905 miles. 4 options. Plastic on seats. $165,500 I think.
In Springfield, Missouri.

I do like these car, even though I'm not a Ford guy. At least they don't work for Obama right now.

While all the plugs are out, it seemed a good time to check compression and do a leakdown test to check the general health of the engine.
Here is the leakdown set up on cyl #7. You bring the piston to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke, so the valves are closed. Pump measured compressed shop air into the cyl thru the spark plug hole, read % of air loss on the fancy little calibrated gauge. This is a super good reading, barely moving the needle off of zero. Looks like about 2% loss. It is normal to lose air past the rings, but seeing 10% is common. While under pressure, listen to the carbs, tailpipe, radiator cap, dipstick hole. Air whistle from any of those helps diagnose internal leakage issue. E.G., air in radiator = bad head gasket, tailpipe = bad exhaust valve. Takes longer to perform, but much better than a compression test.

I have a 2002 Yukon XL which had the infamous piston slap noise. GM played the "it's normal" card for a couple months, if they admitted to a problem they would have thousands of engines to replace. After running the course for a while with them, I took them my own leakdown results, proving the piston was sloppy in the cylinder and could cock enough to lose ring seal against the cyl wall. They could not disprove my results, and gave me a new engine with the 2003 resolution pistons. Side story, but told to show the effectiveness of this proceedure.

In case anyone wondered, here is where the timing marks are on a 308. There is a cover removed with a gasket. Speaking of genius, Ferrari put the oil filter right over this inspection cover, so if you spill any oil during a filter change, it has a really good chance of running right down onto the clutch. Ooops.