Thanks all. This started out to de my routine start and let run for a while winter cycle. Then I decided to move it off the jacks and outside to sweep the floor. Then I figured, as long as it's out...... The tires were no problem as I just putted along like a granny.

Saw this C1 out just before the blizzard:

Yes on FC, but he did not say for what car.

Post the guy's name when you find out who he is. There were a few looking for sources.

Thanks

Saw in a new Autoweek ad that Skip Barber is adding Exige S cars to their line up for the high perf driving school.
That would make a pretty nice package. Existing cars in the program are Porsche, BMW and Lexus.

Mitch (white NSX) recently asked on another board about good first hand experiences or recommendations for detail shops. We could only get some suggestions or places to check. I remembered this section so I just checked and did not see detailing specifically, so wondering if there are any leads here.

Thanks

Looking at some engine pictures, there is room for two little superchargers behind each head, each serving one bank, and maybe room for one large enough to feed an air box that both banks draw from. That would be cheapest and the least complex probably. A centrifugal unit takes less power to spin than a roots type, that would reduce the possibility of belt slippage. One large unit may be less responsive that two small, but that is likely a small difference in real world driving.
Some blowers have built in oil reserves so you do not need to run engine oil thru them to lube (which also adds heat). Powerdyne and Vortech are the brands to look at in that category. Talk to the guys there to pick a model based on displacement, rpm of engine and blower and boost. Start low like 6 psi. Talk to Brian Stewart about fabricating mounts, installing pulleys and running ducting, and finding a shop who can reprogram your ECU fuel and spark curves. Brian worked for race teams during the turbo era and this might be right up his alley. Also ZUL8TR is all over the boost control hardware and knows what is avail to keep things cool and under control. If you want to fund this, the resources are right here.
Powerdyne, like on my car (6,9,12 psi units avail) makes a unit sized for 6.0 litre GMC trucks (how convenient) we need to talk to them about using that here. The blower is about $2000. If you pay Brian $100/hr for 3 weeks of full time work on your car alone that's another $12,000. $3000 for pulleys, bracket aluminum, air box material and ducting and you are rolling. Oops, forgot $500 for the ECU work, and something to ramp up the fuel pressure with rpm or boost if the ecu can't. (Voltage increase to the elect pump maybe??)

Everyone seems to cliam 50 percent inmcreases with this type of setup, so a 500 hp engine becomes 750. Your motor should handle that without much problem as its already full of hi-tech hardware and forgings. Don't know about the clutch, but I know serious clutches are made for that car.

Oh, you want reliability too? That's where the 50K comes in....

I don't know why you can't buy a kit for a $3000 Camaro 6psi Vortech kit or something close to your displacement and start building brackets and pipe.

Bumping an old thread for a project update. Anyone who has driven behind me knows why I get 8 mpg, most of the fuel comes out the tailpipes. I have been playing with jets and pressure, but the only way I can have it run good on top also creates a very rich midrange. So...I have dumped the dual stage fuel pumps and all the stuff related. I tried to go real simple one stage pressure (set for max boost) but that blows the Weber needles of the seats so the carbs flood. New plan is to install a Mallory boost/vac compensating regulator and 15 psi Carter pump. The reg can be set for the 3.5-4 lbs the Webers like and a boost sensing line to the air box increases the regulator's setting one psi for each psi of boost seen, and cuts it back under vacuum. A return line from this regulator sends unused fuel back to the right side tank (the two tanks are connected by a cross over tube) and the regulator will be at the carbs instead of down by the pump where it has been a pain to tweak. Theory is that when the pressure gets high enough to pump gas past the needle and seat, it will be standing open for demand anyway, and supply will reasonably match demand.

I really want to work out this deal on carbs as most other blown cars have programable this and that and tune with computers, or in the case of American V8s the carb set-ups are draw thru, not blow thru.
With this set up I should be able to go from my current 6 to 10+ lbs of boost, and with the carbs completely enclosed in a box still create a venturi action as long as the fuel pressue stays up where the boost does not push the gas back toward the tank.

Ignition needs work too probably to make it all come together, the spark on these cars is pretty weak. There are some mods done already, but I'm thinking about setting it up to where one distributor controls all the spark, or even a crank trigger. It seems at times each bank has a mind of it's own. Then add a 40,000 volt spark to light it all up.

Once that all gets working, there is a box of nitrous jets and solenoids around here somewhere from my drag racing days.
I'm thinking the long front straight at Putnam would be just the place to give it a little extra shot. I can imagine the 355/360 guys when I blow by them there.

Anybody else have a winter project going on?

Sure, if they said anything interesting and you don't mind.