Never thought of WD-40. It is more solvent than lubricant, so makes sense for small areas. Concern is there still is some lubricant to it and curious if that attracts and holds debris. That's got to be why you make sure you clean it off so well.
BTW...the pics are of a 25 year old engine bay of a car that actually gets driven. Over 115k miles to-date.
Cleaning the Engine
Mar 7, 2008, 8:36 am
Forum Fundraiser
Joined: May 1, 2007
Posts: 394
Posts: 394
What is the best way to clean the metal in the engine bay w/out having to take pieces out and clean. I have heard sprays are dangerous to hoses because they can promote cracking inolder hoses. My engine shows at all times so I want metal pieces to look clean and the black hoses etc to look true black.
What do you guys do to clean the engine area to make it shine?
Polishers?
Power tools?
Solvents?
Degreasers?
Back to Black cleaner?
What do you guys do to clean the engine area to make it shine?
Polishers?
Power tools?
Solvents?
Degreasers?
Back to Black cleaner?
Mar 7, 2008, 9:26 am
Member
Joined: Aug 5, 2007
Posts: 2,352
Posts: 2,352
For me, the best way to get a clean engine bay is to start with one and keep it that way with constant cleaning. Never let anything build up. Get a leak, fix it.
Everytime I clean the exterior, I clean the engine bay. I bleed everytime I do this trying to get into all the nooks. I prefer old rags that I can toss when done. Sponges tend to hang up too much and be too thick. Take you time and go at it. Detail brushes and a tooth brush will help you in the small places where dirt starts to build. Watch filling up your disti with water. You can use a leaf blower to speed up the drying process and get the standing water out of the nooks and depressions.
Only time I'll use Gunk is when I am looking at a mess. Not great for your wires and hoses IMO. You can try something like Simple Green if you want less toxic. Any solvent runs the risk of removing paint or clearcoat.
Some of what looks like bare metal will have a clearcoat, zinc oxide coating, or is anodized. Once you damage the coating, you are stuck with polishing or refinishing. There are kits you can buy to redo the zinc oxide coating if interested and you get to play with electricity.
Removing undercoating from under the hood is a bear at best. I'm about to try Stoners Bug & Tar Remover. Will report back after I've tried it. I experimented with gasoline on a small section followed by immediate washing and waxing of the spot. Its held up well. As you can expect, working with gas is dangerous to your health and to your paint.
Strongly suggest you wear Nitrile gloves to protect your skin from the nasty chemicals that like to soak through your skin and attack your liver. Latex gloves will NOT protect you from most chemicals you will use on your car.
Wendol makes some good polishes. A Dremel tool helps for the tight places. For larger areas, use a drill. Better yet, you can make a polisher/grinder from an old washing machine motor and a flexible line for your bits. Harbor Freight is your friend. You can use this to port & polish your heads. Just the thing all newbies should try on their own. LOL!
I use Mothers Back to Black on a problem area of my bumpers. I am not pleased with the outcome. I have not tried it under the hood. I'm hunting for a different solution that includes a full repaint to get rid of the black for good.
I do use CD-2 Engine Detailing spray after I have finished cleaning the engine bay. You can spray everything. On very humid days, you need to wipe it down. On dry, it will dry itself very well with minimal wiping. It causes evrything to look wet clean. It evens out the colors of plastic and hoses. It also does wonders for the metals bits. Look at the attached photos. See the shine and even look to the color. These were taken at a show. This stuff can make the difference between first and second place a the shows I attend.
Always have a few rattle cans around so you can do touch-ups of painted parts. Remember this is a high-temp area when you buy paint. Also make sure you go for the right gloss that will match whatever else you have under there. I usually always have black in flat, semi-gloss and gloss.
Everytime I clean the exterior, I clean the engine bay. I bleed everytime I do this trying to get into all the nooks. I prefer old rags that I can toss when done. Sponges tend to hang up too much and be too thick. Take you time and go at it. Detail brushes and a tooth brush will help you in the small places where dirt starts to build. Watch filling up your disti with water. You can use a leaf blower to speed up the drying process and get the standing water out of the nooks and depressions.
Only time I'll use Gunk is when I am looking at a mess. Not great for your wires and hoses IMO. You can try something like Simple Green if you want less toxic. Any solvent runs the risk of removing paint or clearcoat.
Some of what looks like bare metal will have a clearcoat, zinc oxide coating, or is anodized. Once you damage the coating, you are stuck with polishing or refinishing. There are kits you can buy to redo the zinc oxide coating if interested and you get to play with electricity.
Removing undercoating from under the hood is a bear at best. I'm about to try Stoners Bug & Tar Remover. Will report back after I've tried it. I experimented with gasoline on a small section followed by immediate washing and waxing of the spot. Its held up well. As you can expect, working with gas is dangerous to your health and to your paint.
Strongly suggest you wear Nitrile gloves to protect your skin from the nasty chemicals that like to soak through your skin and attack your liver. Latex gloves will NOT protect you from most chemicals you will use on your car.
Wendol makes some good polishes. A Dremel tool helps for the tight places. For larger areas, use a drill. Better yet, you can make a polisher/grinder from an old washing machine motor and a flexible line for your bits. Harbor Freight is your friend. You can use this to port & polish your heads. Just the thing all newbies should try on their own. LOL!
I use Mothers Back to Black on a problem area of my bumpers. I am not pleased with the outcome. I have not tried it under the hood. I'm hunting for a different solution that includes a full repaint to get rid of the black for good.
I do use CD-2 Engine Detailing spray after I have finished cleaning the engine bay. You can spray everything. On very humid days, you need to wipe it down. On dry, it will dry itself very well with minimal wiping. It causes evrything to look wet clean. It evens out the colors of plastic and hoses. It also does wonders for the metals bits. Look at the attached photos. See the shine and even look to the color. These were taken at a show. This stuff can make the difference between first and second place a the shows I attend.
Always have a few rattle cans around so you can do touch-ups of painted parts. Remember this is a high-temp area when you buy paint. Also make sure you go for the right gloss that will match whatever else you have under there. I usually always have black in flat, semi-gloss and gloss.
1983 Datsun 280ZXTurbo
Mar 8, 2008, 3:25 am
Member
Joined: Oct 6, 2007
Posts: 6
Posts: 6
Believe it or not, a really good, gentle cleaner is WD-40. That's what I use on my Testarossa. You will need to wipe things down well, but it leaves things looking pretty good. I've never tried the engine detail spray stuff - but judging from the pictures, I just might.
Mar 8, 2008, 3:28 am
Member
Joined: Aug 5, 2007
Posts: 2,352
Posts: 2,352
Never thought of WD-40. It is more solvent than lubricant, so makes sense for small areas. Concern is there still is some lubricant to it and curious if that attracts and holds debris. That's got to be why you make sure you clean it off so well.
BTW...the pics are of a 25 year old engine bay of a car that actually gets driven. Over 115k miles to-date.
BTW...the pics are of a 25 year old engine bay of a car that actually gets driven. Over 115k miles to-date.
1983 Datsun 280ZXTurbo
Mar 8, 2008, 9:36 am
Forum Fundraiser
Joined: May 1, 2007
Posts: 394
Posts: 394
Looks great!
What is the best way to get black hoses etc looking deep black?
Mar 8, 2008, 12:05 pm
Member
Joined: Mar 12, 2007
Posts: 1,615
Posts: 1,615
For me, the best way to get a clean engine bay is to start with one and keep it that way with constant cleaning. Never let anything build up. Get a leak, fix it.
Everytime I clean the exterior, I clean the engine bay. I bleed everytime I do this trying to get into all the nooks. I prefer old rags that I can toss when done. Sponges tend to hang up too much and be too thick. Take you time and go at it. Detail brushes and a tooth brush will help you in the small places where dirt starts to build. Watch filling up your disti with water. You can use a leaf blower to speed up the drying process and get the standing water out of the nooks and depressions.
Only time I'll use Gunk is when I am looking at a mess. Not great for your wires and hoses IMO. You can try something like Simple Green if you want less toxic. Any solvent runs the risk of removing paint or clearcoat.
Some of what looks like bare metal will have a clearcoat, zinc oxide coating, or is anodized. Once you damage the coating, you are stuck with polishing or refinishing. There are kits you can buy to redo the zinc oxide coating if interested and you get to play with electricity.
Removing undercoating from under the hood is a bear at best. I'm about to try Stoners Bug & Tar Remover. Will report back after I've tried it. I experimented with gasoline on a small section followed by immediate washing and waxing of the spot. Its held up well. As you can expect, working with gas is dangerous to your health and to your paint.
Strongly suggest you wear Nitrile gloves to protect your skin from the nasty chemicals that like to soak through your skin and attack your liver. Latex gloves will NOT protect you from most chemicals you will use on your car.
Wendol makes some good polishes. A Dremel tool helps for the tight places. For larger areas, use a drill. Better yet, you can make a polisher/grinder from an old washing machine motor and a flexible line for your bits. Harbor Freight is your friend. You can use this to port & polish your heads. Just the thing all newbies should try on their own. LOL!
I use Mothers Back to Black on a problem area of my bumpers. I am not pleased with the outcome. I have not tried it under the hood. I'm hunting for a different solution that includes a full repaint to get rid of the black for good.
I do use CD-2 Engine Detailing spray after I have finished cleaning the engine bay. You can spray everything. On very humid days, you need to wipe it down. On dry, it will dry itself very well with minimal wiping. It causes evrything to look wet clean. It evens out the colors of plastic and hoses. It also does wonders for the metals bits. Look at the attached photos. See the shine and even look to the color. These were taken at a show. This stuff can make the difference between first and second place a the shows I attend.
Always have a few rattle cans around so you can do touch-ups of painted parts. Remember this is a high-temp area when you buy paint. Also make sure you go for the right gloss that will match whatever else you have under there. I usually always have black in flat, semi-gloss and gloss.
Everytime I clean the exterior, I clean the engine bay. I bleed everytime I do this trying to get into all the nooks. I prefer old rags that I can toss when done. Sponges tend to hang up too much and be too thick. Take you time and go at it. Detail brushes and a tooth brush will help you in the small places where dirt starts to build. Watch filling up your disti with water. You can use a leaf blower to speed up the drying process and get the standing water out of the nooks and depressions.
Only time I'll use Gunk is when I am looking at a mess. Not great for your wires and hoses IMO. You can try something like Simple Green if you want less toxic. Any solvent runs the risk of removing paint or clearcoat.
Some of what looks like bare metal will have a clearcoat, zinc oxide coating, or is anodized. Once you damage the coating, you are stuck with polishing or refinishing. There are kits you can buy to redo the zinc oxide coating if interested and you get to play with electricity.
Removing undercoating from under the hood is a bear at best. I'm about to try Stoners Bug & Tar Remover. Will report back after I've tried it. I experimented with gasoline on a small section followed by immediate washing and waxing of the spot. Its held up well. As you can expect, working with gas is dangerous to your health and to your paint.
Strongly suggest you wear Nitrile gloves to protect your skin from the nasty chemicals that like to soak through your skin and attack your liver. Latex gloves will NOT protect you from most chemicals you will use on your car.
Wendol makes some good polishes. A Dremel tool helps for the tight places. For larger areas, use a drill. Better yet, you can make a polisher/grinder from an old washing machine motor and a flexible line for your bits. Harbor Freight is your friend. You can use this to port & polish your heads. Just the thing all newbies should try on their own. LOL!
I use Mothers Back to Black on a problem area of my bumpers. I am not pleased with the outcome. I have not tried it under the hood. I'm hunting for a different solution that includes a full repaint to get rid of the black for good.
I do use CD-2 Engine Detailing spray after I have finished cleaning the engine bay. You can spray everything. On very humid days, you need to wipe it down. On dry, it will dry itself very well with minimal wiping. It causes evrything to look wet clean. It evens out the colors of plastic and hoses. It also does wonders for the metals bits. Look at the attached photos. See the shine and even look to the color. These were taken at a show. This stuff can make the difference between first and second place a the shows I attend.
Always have a few rattle cans around so you can do touch-ups of painted parts. Remember this is a high-temp area when you buy paint. Also make sure you go for the right gloss that will match whatever else you have under there. I usually always have black in flat, semi-gloss and gloss.
Looks good!
9/18/10
Mar 8, 2008, 1:50 pm
Member
Joined: Sep 30, 2007
Posts: 1,024
Posts: 1,024
Mark, your engine bay looks stellar! Is that the original paint on the valve cover?
Those that are lucky their whole lives usually die young...
Mar 8, 2008, 3:29 pm
Mighty Mouse
Joined: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 1,477
Posts: 1,477
Z, stoner's bug and tar works well. I also have the turtle wax bug and tar which works the same. 
use Microfiber cloth.
use Microfiber cloth.
More power makes it fast on the straight, less weight makes it fast everywhere - Colin Chapman
Mar 9, 2008, 3:51 am
Member
Joined: Aug 5, 2007
Posts: 2,352
Posts: 2,352
Thanks for the kudos guys!
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Fourringpilot...if you are wanting the deep black on the hoses like in the pics I posted, a good scrubbing to get clean, then that's the CD-2 Engine Detailer that makes them look so good. Some of the hoses on my engine have been replaced in the last 3 years...due to age. All vacuum lines were replaced too...again due to age and developing leaks.
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Fourringpilot...if you are wanting the deep black on the hoses like in the pics I posted, a good scrubbing to get clean, then that's the CD-2 Engine Detailer that makes them look so good. Some of the hoses on my engine have been replaced in the last 3 years...due to age. All vacuum lines were replaced too...again due to age and developing leaks.
1983 Datsun 280ZXTurbo
Mar 10, 2008, 2:47 am
Activities Director
Joined: Mar 11, 2007
Posts: 2,411
Posts: 2,411
Nice looking engine bay. Tastefully done.
2006 Time Magazine's "Man Of The Year"
Mar 12, 2008, 2:56 am
Member
Joined: Sep 30, 2007
Posts: 1,024
Posts: 1,024
Thanks for the kudos guys!
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Well, the valve cover's are great shape, but I would like to maybe get them PC'd in silver or red. The previous owner of my NSX was a freak for detailing...
Those that are lucky their whole lives usually die young...
Mar 12, 2008, 2:08 pm
Mighty Mouse
Joined: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 1,477
Posts: 1,477
And I thought I was anal about detailing.
More power makes it fast on the straight, less weight makes it fast everywhere - Colin Chapman
Mar 14, 2008, 10:03 am
Webby #2
Joined: Jul 27, 2007
Posts: 839
Posts: 839
And I thought I was anal about detailing.
have you met Jackson?
Mar 14, 2008, 3:04 pm
Forum Fundraiser
Joined: May 1, 2007
Posts: 394
Posts: 394
Thanks for the kudos guys!
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Fourringpilot...if you are wanting the deep black on the hoses like in the pics I posted, a good scrubbing to get clean, then that's the CD-2 Engine Detailer that makes them look so good. Some of the hoses on my engine have been replaced in the last 3 years...due to age. All vacuum lines were replaced too...again due to age and developing leaks.
Raza...yes, that's the original paint on the valvecover. If your valve cover is looking bad, powdercoating works wonders on them and lots of folks can do it for you in your choice of colors.
Fourringpilot...if you are wanting the deep black on the hoses like in the pics I posted, a good scrubbing to get clean, then that's the CD-2 Engine Detailer that makes them look so good. Some of the hoses on my engine have been replaced in the last 3 years...due to age. All vacuum lines were replaced too...again due to age and developing leaks.
TY for the tip. They now look great!
Mar 14, 2008, 3:13 pm
Member
Joined: Aug 5, 2007
Posts: 2,352
Posts: 2,352
TY for the tip. They now look great!
You better show up Sunday so I can verify in person!
1983 Datsun 280ZXTurbo